Free-motion embroidery with the Brother Sewing Innov-is V7

I’m getting to know my Brother Innov-is V7, putting it to the test with the methods I use the most. It’s more than able to embroider and stitch decoratively on its own (there are more patterns than I’ll ever use!) but what about creating my own designs? I’m not referring to booting up my PEDesign 10 software – not yet, anyway – I need to know how it copes with something a little more freestyle.

Free Motion Embroidery, Darning or Quilting; all different applications for the practice of dropping the feed dogs on your sewing machine and using your hands to guide the fabric in any direction, achieving a more fluid line of stitching. Professionally, I use this method for the application of delicate appliqué and lace hems to bridal gowns.

It’s quick and easy to prepare the machine, which allows me to sew tulle, organza and chiffon with a more fluid technique than a straight stitch would allow. A personal favourite of mine is to create Freestanding lace, or use organza to create 3D objects, like flowers or butterflies. In contrast to programmed embroidery, this method has the element of unpredictability, which means you can see evidence of the sewist’s hand.

Until now, I’ve been afraid to use this shiny, new, luxurious machine for free-hand sewing, instead leaving this task to my old, cotton reel sticker and scratch-covered workhorse! But today I took the plunge, sifted through my fabrics for organza, silk and taffeta, matched up some threads, then set to work.

Innov-is V7 with optional extras – Multi Function Foot Control, Free Motion Grip and ETS 40 Thread Set.

Getting started, I assembled the V7 as a sewing machine, complete with Wide Table and optional Multi Function Foot Control. I had the Free Motion foot ‘O’ ready, along with a pair of thread snips, spare bobbins, a knee-lifter and a Free Motion Grip. In the machine settings I made sure the Multi Function Foot Control was set to ‘needle position – up/ down’ and ‘presser foot – up/ down’. I didn’t want to accidentally trim my thread mid-project, so left this option off, which meant I didn’t need the knee-lifter after all, but out of habit I always make sure it’s attached. Then I ensured the fabric sensor was ‘on’ and needle position was central.

The choice of stitch was easy to find. In the Quilting menu, stitch Q-02, selecting to drop the feed dogs. This automatically recognises that I will be free-motion sewing, so deactivates the feed and changes the foot recommendation on-screen. The tension is pre-set, although I could change this if needed, depending on the thread choice.

I first stitched some organza and taffeta, using a wash-away stabilizer to create some lotus flower petals. I wanted to make a 3D lotus flower, constructing it in layers. Aware that my stitching would be visible, I layered the colours and textures of the different fabrics, with stabilizer on the back to help me to keep the shape. Washing away the stabilizer after cutting the petals out added some stiffness and adhesive to the stitches.

Next, I layered up some shot silk and cotton, with wadding in between. This gave me a good indication of how free-motion quilting would feel, but for this project I wanted to create a scene for my lotus flower. I drew my pattern with a fabric pen, layering up organza to give shading and using stitches as a form of sketching, directly onto the fabric. This part of the project was easily controlled by the (optional) free-motion grip – a rubberised hoop that grips the fabric, allowing me to quickly and easily add different layers to the appliqué, adjusting my position to cover a large area as well as keeping my fingers safe from the needle.

The Multi Function Foot Control made the whole process much easier to handle, I could make changes to my position without needing to take my hands away from my work. I recommend purchasing one of these if you own a V-series machine, as the foot pedal is larger, has more grip and is more responsive, as well as having countless combinations of functions to tailor to your requirements.

Ultimately, this has been an excellent introduction into creative sewing with the Innov-is V7. I felt the stitching was smooth, fluid, consistent and easy to manipulate. It was also very quiet and coped easily where the layers built up and stitching became dense.

Now I’ve become accustomed to the extra space and LED lighting, I would struggle to return to my old mechanical model. I find I often need to get quite close to my work when working on intricate detailing, but the 360-degree LED lights made it much easier to see my stitching.

The finished product is always unknown with this method of sewing. But I’m really pleased with the outcome. I will not hesitate to come straight here for my next piece of lacework.

Julia Ashman is from Cambridge and specialises in bridal wear, with a focus on customising and alterations. She studied Art History at Lancaster University, fuelling her interest in Art, Textiles and Interior Design. View more of her work and writing on her Instagram and blog.