Sewing a denim and copper Hampton Jean Jacket with Fiona Parker
I love sewing outerwear. I'm not sure if it is the challenge of a big
sew and complex techniques or the thought that this garment will be the one I
can get endless wear out of, but I just love it. I have loved every minute of
sewing the Hampton Jean Jacket already know it is
going to be one of the most worn items in my handmade wardrobe.
The pattern is from Alina Sewing & Design Co and it was my first time using a pattern from them. I cannot emphasise
enough how impressed I was with both the instructions and pattern itself.
Considering what a lengthy project this is, the instructions are packed with
detail and advice without seeming overwhelming and the illustrations are all
clear and helpful. There wasn't a single moment when I found myself scratching
my head over the next step and the end result is beautiful.
The pattern is well thought-out and packed with the detail needed to
produce a truly classic denim jacket. I love that all four front pockets are
functional, and the addition of elements like the back tabs on the waistband
elevates the design to the next level. I can't think of anything else I'd add,
there’s even a hanging loop. I particularly love the seaming on the front and
how the breast pocket sits within that which is highlighted by the double lines
of topstitching.
Speaking of topstitching, I'm really proud of how mine turned out. It is
one of my favourite sewing techniques as I think it makes a garment look more
professional, and I also enjoy doing it, which helps! The pattern does include
instructions on how to flat fell your seams but also recommends a faux flat
felled seam, particularly in areas with a lot of layers of the denim. I went
with the faux flat fell as I thought I would get a tidier finish on the outside
with this method, and also for speed. To faux flat fell a seam you finish the
seam allowances together (I overlocked mine) then press to one side and
topstitch twice.
I was hesitant about using topstitching thread as I had some trouble
with it snarling up when I made my Ginger Jeans and have tended to avoid it since. Then I picked up a tip on Instagram about using Gutermann Extra Strong thread instead and it has changed my life! It is a fraction finer than
top-stitching thread and I actually prefer the less bulky effect once sewn. I
encountered much less tangling of thread on the rear side than I had before,
although that might partly be down to the machine.
I chose a lovely coppery
tone thread (Col. 448) to match the copper buttons from Prym I had picked out.
Hammering those buttons in at the end is always a tense moment as you don't
want to do irreversible damage to your garment in the final moments but not as
tense as I felt sewing the final bits of topstitching! I messed up one of the
buttonholes and had to unpick (never fun) and then realised I was running out
of top-stitching thread! A particularly stressful game of thread chicken ensued
and I couldn't believe it when I finished with less than a metre of thread
left. In case you were wondering one 100m reel of Extra Strong thread is JUST
enough for this jacket, allowing for a few mistakes!
There are some fairly tricky elements involved that seem a little
daunting but the instructions guide you through no problem and I enjoyed the
opportunity to work with some nice stable denim. I've had this denim in my
stash for a while now and can't remember if it came from Mood Fabrics or The Fabric Store. It is a nice, sturdy mid-weight denim with a rich inky colour that is
slightly more blue than shows up in photos. The copper thread and buttons show
up so beautifully against it. I love it looking crisp and new as it is but also
can't wait to see how it wears in and softens up.
I was uneasy about tackling the welt pockets on the front of the jacket
as they are so visible with contrast topstitching and are also one of the first
things you sew. I haven't sewn a huge amount of welt pockets and need to build
up my confidence and skill but am really pleased with these ones!
The method is
a little different to those I have sewn before but I didn't question it and
followed the instructions to the letter, taking particular care to sew the
sides accurately to achieve a nice clean rectangular opening. A large chunk of
the instructions are given to the welt pockets, breaking them downing small
steps. I thought they were brilliant. To line the pockets I used scraps of
cotton ikat left over from my Tofo Summer Jumpsuit.
While part of me can't believe I haven't sewn a denim jacket before now
(it such a wardrobe staple and sewing achievement!) I'm pleased I didn't
attempt it before I had my shiny new Brother Innov-is F420 machine. Whilst I adored
my very basic machine the process of making this would have been a lot more
challenging and a lot less enjoyable.
When working with layers of denim as
thick as this I would have had to hand crank through a lot of it to the
detriment of my topstitching. If you're struggling to get your machine going on
the edge of a particularly thick area of fabric you can fold up another piece
of fabric or card to put under the back of the foot and level things out. Think
about it like the machine trying to sew up hill, it is much easier to run on
the flat!
I was particularly nervous about the instructions to sew very visible
bar tacks through quite thick areas of fabric as my old machine did not get on
with these at all. This Brother machine was an absolute trooper and has
produced a beautiful finish. There are a couple of areas on the long ones at
either end of the welt pockets where there is a little wobble but that was
operator error rather than the machine.
I assumed that as the layers were so thick
the garment might need a little encouragement through the machine and as the
stitching is so dense it is hard to judge whether it is moving cleanly through
the machine or not. I should have trusted the machine and left it to it's own
devices because it was doing just fine without me! This machine does have a
setting to sew bar tacks to a given length but I chose to use the zig zag
stitch on a 2.5mm width and 0.4mm length.
Another thing the machine needed no help with was buttonholes. I love, love,
love the one step buttonhole on this machine. So quick and easy, it even tidies
and cuts the thread for you. I also love that the machine comes with the choice
of several styles of buttonhole.
For this project I went with a keyhole shape
with a bar tack on the end for extra strength in this tough fabric (stitch
setting no.64 if you're interested!). It looks so professional and I am delighted.
I do recommend that you try out a couple of buttonholes on a scrap piece of
fabric first though, so you can get used to the placement and check the size.
The most difficult part for me was surprisingly the simple task of
top-stitching around the armhole. As it is right towards the end of the process
you are dealing with a lot of fabric and weight at that point. I found as I
moved the jacket around to allow me access around the armhole as I sewed
sometimes the fabric shifted slightly under the foot so my topstitching is a
little less even in that area than elsewhere. I'm being really pernickety
though! I was thinking I should have increased the pressure of the presser
foot at this point to hold the garment in place but perhaps I should get into
the habit of keeping the needle down. There is a function on this machine to
finish stitching with it down so I could have just turned that on in
hindsight...I'm not used to all these bells and whistles!
The only element I wasn't sure about was the construction method for the
back tabs on the waistband. Interestingly, the pattern pieces aren't that
shape but are square once sewn together, and you have to poke the top corners
inside to create the point. I thought it would be difficult to achieve a nice
sharp and even point and then was concerned about the bulkiness of this area
when sewing the buttonhole. But it turned out really nicely and my machine had
no problems. I do, in fact, think the extra bulk helps hold a nice, crisp shape and
you eliminate the risk of frayed edges if you trim and turn through that point
too aggressively.
The only thing I would potentially change about the jacket is the length
of the sleeves. I think they look a touch long (not unusual for me) but then
again I quite like long sleeves for warmth on outerwear. I'm more than happy
with the fit and length overall, although it isn't as tailored or cropped as I
might have previously chosen. However, I think this slightly boxy cut has a
contemporary feel and is ideal for my current wardrobe. It is going to look
great with cropped trousers or slung-over summer dresses. I cut the size 6
which matches my measurements and whilst I could have gone down a size for a
snugger fit, I think this is perfect, as it will layer well over sweaters on
chilly evenings.
I am incredibly happy with this project and glad I took my time over it.
I knew it was going to be a big sew so it took me a while to get started on it
as I felt like I wanted a good, clear day of sewing, which over the last few
months has been non-existent. I constructed the jacket in small stints in the
evenings which actually prevented stupid mistakes when I got tired.
I think
there is always at least one mistake or element that you wish you could have
done better on any project but the slow pace and care I put into making this
has produced sewing I'm incredibly proud of. This pattern is a great one to sew
in small bursts as there are lots of little elements that you can tick off so
you still feel satisfied at the end of each session.
Approaching it in small
chunks makes it feel less overwhelming. Sewing this has taught me how much you
can achieve in limited amounts of sewing time and that you don't need a whole
day or weekend to try and sew something start to finish.
This project also cured my recent sewing slump. I've been working so
much over the last few months that when I have had time at home it has been
hard to motivate myself to sew. I'd always thought a quick and satisfying tee
or camisole project is best to kickstart the sew-jo as you can achieve that
satisfaction of a completed project quickly. However, I so enjoyed every step
of making this that I couldn't wait to get back to my machine and sew some
more!
Looking at the result achieved with this machine I can't wait to sew a
pair of jeans now. Next on the list is a pair of Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans in dark denim!
Nice Article.
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