Using the Hemming Set on the Brother CV3550 Coverstitch Machine with Sarah Payne


I love a machine that grows as my needs do, and I really adore handy gadgets that make life easier and more fun. So I was delighted when I finally got the chance to play with the Hemming Set (XB2970001) I ordered as an extra for my Brother CV3550 Coverstitch machine. Basically, I had an alteration job to do, and I wanted to do it in the most professional-looking manner possible. Also, I had been waiting for an excuse to hide myself away and put this attachment through its paces.











The first thing to do was open the pack. There were four items and two sets of instructions. One set of instructions is for the four-thread Coverstitch CV3440 and one is for the five-thread Coverstitch machine CV3550 – the one I have. Therefore this can be used on both machines. I opened the instructions to find I had a choice of hem styles to experiment with, hem type A (a single fold hem) and hem type B (a double fold).





There are actually five elements in the hemming set. There is the hemming attachment which fits onto the machine. Then there is a hem guide A and a hem guide B (which is already fitted to the attachment), a positioning plate A and a positioning plate B. Fortunately, the pieces are all labelled which is a great help until you get used to everything!



Single fold hem

I decided to start off with a single fold seam – let’s not run before we can walk! The first step is to set up the attachment  on the machine. It says in the instructions that this attachment cannot be used with the top cover stitch – which meant removing the Top cover spreader attachment and thread guide. This was simple enough to do. Next, I removed the positioning plate B from the attachment and slid on the A plate, and then clicked the hem guide A in place. This is easily done by following the diagrams in the instructions. Make sure to line up the guide on the attachment to triangular alignment mark on the machine. My first attempt was not so successful because I missed this step (I was too excited to read the instructions properly!).

What is great about these two hemming options is that you can use a 3mm narrow cover stitch, or a wide 6mm cover stitch for your hem. I would suggest the wide option for your first try as it is easier to handle, then set up your left and your right needles and your looper thread.

The positioning plate lifts to allow you to place the fabric underneath the hem guide (fig 5). Then fold the remaining fabric over the top and flip the position plate back down again, then feed the folded fabric under the clear foot and begin sewing (fig 6).


The resulting hem is shown in figure 7. The parallel lines of stitching on the front of the fabric are 6mm apart with the looper thread on the back covering the raw edge. A close up in figure 8 shows the edges encased so there will be no fraying.

You can vary the distance between the stitching and the bottom of the hem by moving the guide and the positioning plate to the left or right. Moving it to the right will make the hem much deeper (fig 9).







Double fold Hem

After this success I was ready to start with the double hem! This is very similar to the single hem – we just swap to the B parts (fig 10)!
The double hem guide has an extra fold in it, so the fabric tucks back under itself (fig 11). Depending on your fabric, you may want to press your seam first. I was using a fairly robust calico and so didn’t need to, but if I was working with something sheer it might make it even easier. 
Then flip the positioning plate back down again and stitch away. This results in a very neat hem, with the raw edges folded inside the hem. This is especially useful for fabrics that fray a lot.


















Needles

Both  hem styles will allow you to work with a 6mm or a 3mm two needle stitch. Figures 13 and 14 show the needle placement to make sure that the raw edge of the hem is enclosed with stitches.



You can use the 3mm configuration for the single and double folded hem (fig 15).












Once I got my head around the easy setup, I had great fun playing with these attachments, and I think they will get quite a bit of use in my dressmaking adventures. With the option for different widths of stitching, as well as double and single folds, there is plenty of room for experimenting with different fabrics with this versatile piece of kit.


Sarah Payne

Like many people, Sarah started crafting at her mother’s knee with knitting, crochet and cross stitch. But, like most children, she soon lost interest as she discovered Sindy dolls and later on; boys!

After studying the arts with a passion at school, Sarah succumbed to the pressures to pursue a ‘real’+ career, going to University to study Economics and following a career path in IT. However, the early love of arts and crafts never left her and was given outlet in small jewellery making and mixed media textile projects that would fit in a travel bag.

These projects got bigger and she discovered the pleasure of quilts and other sewing machine worked projects. After 15 years travelling and working, Sarah decided to take a break and pursue the creative side of her nature. Since taking the plunge, Sarah opened a fabric shop and has had quilting patterns published in British Patchwork & Quilting, and Popular Patchwork. She is a regular contributor to Quilt Now with hints, tips and projects, has launched a successful range of quilting USBs packed full of instructional videos and designs her own fabric range for Craft Cotton Company. Sarah is also known for making many of her own clothes and is also a popular TV sewing demonstrator on Create and Craft, Britain’s largest craft-based shopping channel. She regularly presents 30 – 40 live hours of crafting TV a month, aimed at beginner and improver sewers. 


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