V7 heirloom sewing with Julia Ashman

Baby Vest & Shorts with sample stitches panel 

I’m a dressmaker, sewist and a seamstress, so the sewing side of the V series is an element that really excites me. I’ve been gradually doing more of my everyday sewing on the V7 and already been impressed by the quality of stitch it performs, even on the most unpredictable stretch jerseys. I have also managed a successful customising job on a bridal gown, using many layers of slippery linings and corded lace, without fault and with great precision.

Ultimately, I would love to up-cycle some cotton shirts I purchased from a charity shop, so I’ve been collecting various supplies. I have always wanted to try heirloom sewing, using traditional, typically hand-sewn sewing methods to create decorative finishes, but I have some new presser feet and needles so wanted to give it a go on my sewing machine.

In my stash I have: lace edging, insertion lace, 20 count cotton linen, 30 count cotton lawn, seven groove pintuck foot, edge joining foot, ribbon (various widths), stranded cotton, wing needle, twin needle, regular size 80/12 needle and fine threads (bobbin fill and embroidery thread). 

I have most of my supplies in white, ivory or cream, as traditionally used in heirloom sewing. I have my V7 set up in sewing mode, with the wide table (WT10) and multi function foot control (MFFC). I have the fabric sensor system enabled (I never disable it!), and I'll give some different methods a try, creating a sample panel and documenting the results. Let's go!

Pintucks

For the pintuck effect the twin needle is used. The two lines of stitching create a raised channel, which can then be used with the pintuck foot to guide and sew parallel lines. In order to emphasise the raised channels the thread tension is increased on the screen with the stitch settings, the twin needle function also needs selecting - a safety feature to prevent the needles hitting the foot or plate on the machine. It won’t allow you to select wide stitches or change the stitch beyond a certain width. I tried this on the linen but with poor results, on the cotton lawn the pintucks were more prominent.

You cannot use the auto-needle threader with the twin needle. I didn’t use the auto- thread trimmer either.

Twin needle settings

Twin needle sewing

    

Alternatively, pintucks can be created by pressing a fold in the fabric and stitching 1mm from the fold. For this I used the linen, size 80 needle and edge joining foot. I moved the needle over by 1mm to sew off-center. Once one pintuck is sewn, press it out and sew another one, using the foot as a guide.

Creating pintucks using the edge joining foot

I prefer the look of the pressed linen technique over the twin needle. It is more consistent and can be used on any type of fabric.

Lace insertion

Adding lace to a cut edge is a simple and satisfying effect. This process uses the edge joining foot. I find it very easy to produce a neat stitch by focusing on the guide at the centre of the foot, father than the needle. I recommend sewing slowly, so you can keep an eye on the quality and straightness off of the stitch. The lace is so fine and intricate that the slightest movement in position can effect the stitch placement.

Lace edging sewing

Lace edging settings

   

Decorative stitches

Using different stitches and ribbons, I have been able to add extra texture to my sample. I found some candlewicking stitches within the decorative menu that produce a built-up satin effect. Adding satin and organza ribbons also added a beautiful sheen to the work, breaking up the linen.

Decorative stitching and settings

Sewing decorative stitches using a wing needle can transform the look of a project. The needle has wings that separate the fibres in the fabric, creating holes. Combined with the right stitches this can give an open lace embroidery effect. I had to play with a few stitches to find some that worked well. In the past I’ve had to use stabiliser, but with the linen fabric this wasn’t necessary. I used decorative sewing foot N for these stitches, it has a clear view front and space under the foot for the ribbons and stitching to feed evenly.

Wing needle sewing and settings

Once I had worked through some of the traditional heirloom stitches, I felt inspired to start experimenting. The edge joining foot is by far my favourite new tool.

Edge joining foot

Couching

Couching is a technique that uses a zigzag stitch to sew over a cord or yarn. Using the pintuck foot as a guide, I laid my stranded cotton on the linen and tried a selection of zigzag stitches over the top. This effect could have been great - if only I had marked out straight lines to follow!

Pintuck foot

I now have many samples of stitching to combine in one piece, using lace edging on the ends, and bias binding to finish.

Some of my sample stitching

Even more sample stitching!

The V7 coped perfectly with the different tasks. I even heard the fabric sensor system making adjustments as I was sewing. I didn’t have any problems with the fine thread and was able to make changes to the stitch settings directly on the screen.

I decided to put my favourite stitches into a project. I have a vintage baby vest and shorts pattern that lends itself perfectly to this style.

The pattern I used is Simplicity Vintage Baby 1813A, made up with cotton linen. I freestyled the decoration on the front of the vest, keeping it symmetrical. I chose to add lace, folded edge pintucks, decorative stitching and wing needle. I constructed the vest with delicate concealed French seams, bias binding on the neckline as a ribbon casing and a deep lace trim for the hem. I love this style and will definitely be adding many of the techniques to future projects. See you next time!